Return of an exile

After 28 years of self-imposed exile, Moomina Haleem returned to the Maldives on November 15.

“I had not seen this Male’. It was absolutely amazing; when I left it was green and the only thing I could see was treetops. Now it looks like little Manhattan,” says Moomina, now 70 years old.

Harassed to the point of being forced to leave the country, one imagines the experience would have left Moomina bitter. But Moomina is the epitome of happiness, sitting in her home, surrounded by two visiting friends. She offers me nougat and Maldivian sweets, laughingly telling me this is what they do all day now.

She has the sweetest smile and looks like everyone’s favourite aunt. Black and white photos are framed on the walls behind her.

Her return to the Maldives started with a phone call. She describes it as her happiest moment in 28 years “when Mohamed Nasheed called me just after he won the election and told me, ‘you can come home now.’”

Her excitement was such that it took her three tries just to get home. The first time she lay awake the entire night and was sick, “so instead of airport I went to the hospital. The doctors found nothing wrong with me, I think it was extreme happiness playing havoc.”

Two days later she woke on departure day to realize she had lost her voice. Finally she arrived on November 15, 2008.

She says despite the invitation to to attend President Mohamed Nasheed’s inauguration, she insisted she would come back after he was sworn in.

“This time I was very happy to be able to participate in the festivities for the one year mark,” she says.

Keeping in touch

Moomina kept herself updated with what was happening in the Maldives through newspapers her husband bought her regularly, “although I am not sure everything I read was correct.”

‘Disappointment’ is the foremost emotion she feels about the years she lived in exile.

“I couldn’t help my countrymen, even when I was young and capable of doing so much for the people,” she laments.

She wasn’t completely ‘useless’ for her compatriots, as she puts it, acting as translator and accompanying Maldivians who travelled to Sri Llanka for medical treatment.

“Back then it was crucial help as most didn’t speak English. Now the youngsters are fluent in it,” she says.

A trained nurse by profession, it helped that she was familiar with the health sector, but she says “even then I could only help those I saw.”

She recalls a time she accompanied a couple to the doctor. When they saw her five days later after being cured, they tried to give her money for her help.

“I told them that I had been educated by Maldivian government when the country was very poor, and it was my duty to help and there was no way I would accept money from a Maldivian for that.”

Moomina laments that despite the state bestowing on her the gift of education, circumstances did not enable her to contribute back to the country to the extent she wanted to.

Leaving and travelling

Two years after Gayoom’s government came to power in late 1978, Moomina went to Sri Lanka for the treatment of her younger sister.

“I never imagined I would not come back then,” she says. Calls followed in quick succession, including from her mother who asked her not to return.

“By then there was practically no one in my family who hadn’t been detained on one pretext or another,” Moomina says.

Her husband, who suffered from epilepsy, had to take medicine every night and she recalls how every evening police would show up the moment he went to sleep to take him to the station where they would keep him awake until morning.

Moomina had to make the painful decision to not return for her two sons, then aged six years and two months.

“I had no money, I didn’t know what the future held, or how could I take them with me,” she says. It would be four years before she would see her children again.

Before making the decision to become an exile Moomina had been dragged to court and detained for questioning on numerous occasions. Once, the judge sentenced her to banishment, “although they never enforced the sentence. I never imagined I would ever be taken to court,” she says. She says being repeatedly dragged to court was one of her most difficult experiences.

She was frequently accused of inciting hatred among citizens towards the government, an offense under a particular article in the constitution “that was written in such a way that you could interpret it any way you wanted. It’s not in the constitution now.”

But her stay in Colombo was short lived. After three months she was summoned to the dreaded CID quarters in Colombo.

“People had fallen from that building, and been tortured, and I dared not go there,” she recalls. Instead she consulted her husband’s friend, who used a contact to ask the CID to come round and interview her at his place.

“Two CID officers arrived and said I had been placed under surveillance since my arrival on the request of Maldivian government,” she says.

While they said they had found nothing to indicate she was part of a revolution against the government, they couldn’t allow her to stay in Sri Lanka “owing to the close ties between the two countries.”

They also told her that the head of the revolution was her relative Ahmed Naseem (now state minister for foreign affairs).

“I was under that misconception for 15 years until I met Ilyas Ibrahim (brother-in-law of former president Gayoom) in London.”

Ilyas was undergoing self-imposed exile in London after he was sentenced in absentia to 15 years’ banishment for treason during Gayoom’s third term in power. The court claimed he had tried to overthrow the government using sorcery.

He was frank enough to tell Moomina that they had cooked up the story about Naseem, she alleges, adding this dumbfounded her “especially since Naseem had spent considerable time in jail for that.”

She claims he also told her that the government had been rigging elections ever since they came to power. She laughingly says she should have had a recorder then.

“I used to say this: when my husband gets banished it is to Baa Atoll Dhonfanu, when Ilyas gets banished it is to London.”

Back and forth

Moomina asked the Sri Lankan CID for 24 hours to leave the country, and chose UK as her destination as it was at the time the only country aside from Italy that would accept Maldivians without visas.

She bought a ticket with her remaining money, leaving her with five dollars. In London she lodged at a friend’s sister’s place.

As a member of Royal College of Nursing, she contacted them and was advised to apply for political asylum. The home affairs secretary told her she would be given permission to work the next day if she applied.

“I told them I couldn’t, because if the news travelled back to Maldives I was scared of what they would do to my family.”

After completing a refresher course offered by the college she applied for a job in Kuwait. She had barely started working as the director of nursing in a hospital when the first Iran-Iraq war broke out.

“I looked at the maps and I thought about this little country sandwiched between two giants, and what would happen to it [during the war].”

So she travelled back to London again, only returning to work in Kuwait five months later when she was sure it was safe. She says there were moments she was almost penniless but fear for her family’s safety kept preventing her from applying for political asylum.

She tells cute anecdotes. One night, she says, when she was left with only five pounds, she prayed before going to sleep that night and woke up to a phone call from the State Bank of India informing her there was 1,000 pounds waiting for her from her husband. When she asked him why he sent the money at that exact moment, two and a half years later “he told me he woke up and thought she must need money now.”

Several years after working in Kuwait she met the ambassador to Sri Lanka, and during their conversation she realized the Maldivian government’s objective was simply to ensure she didn’t return to Maldives. So she went back to Colombo where she was reunited with her children.

“My mom moved to Colombo with the children, as even their life was becoming more difficult.”

Contribution to the country

After her studies, Moomina started working in November 1963 as the matron of the hospital, when the country was still a sultanate.

“It was barely a hospital then, it was called the doctoruge (doctor’s house).” During her early career she even designed and commissioned a bed to help women give birth.

A few days into her job, the person in charge of the hospital complained that soap expenses had been skyrocketing ever since she arrived. Her explanation is fascinating especially at a time when we take such things for granted: “There were two untrained staff who applied dressings to patients, and one doubled as the undertaker.”

Noticing they didn’t wash their hands in between attending to different patients, Moomina trained them to do it. “Once they started hand washing, the expenses complaint came up.” She ended up taking soap from her house to the hospital.

The problem of patient privacy arose next, especially for those who needed to use bedpans.

“Without screens, I dared not do it,” she says. The solution involved buying three pieces of clothing to make up screens, “and that took care of my entire month’s salary.” As all this was new, there was no budget allocated for such things.

Expenses were such a problem that when she heard over the radio that Ibrahim Nasir had been assigned the head of the hospital, her first words were: “Better than him getting the salary would be giving the money to me to buy medicine for the poor.”

She was pleasantly surprised to be summoned and told that Nasir was donating his salary to the hospital.

Then there was a fund called Ranabadeyri kileygefanu fund, and she was assigned the task of spending its monthly stipend of Rf 1,000. “Back then for 100 rufiyya we could buy medicine for 10 people so it was a lot,” she says.

But the funds came with strings attached. “100 rufiyya was given at a time, once I spent that money on buying medicine for the poor I had to show records, with the patient’s signature, then I would be given the next 100.”

Her diligence was duly noted, and Nasir appointed her health minister in 1976 when he became president.

“I wrote the syllabus, included information on common illnesses, their causes and prevention methods as well as good, nutritional stuff to eat. But my biggest achievement was training health workers and sending one to each island – before that there was only one health worker per atoll,” she says, proud of her contribution even though she only held the portfolio for a short time before Nasir’s government was dissolved in 1978.

Moomina was also quite the trendsetter, and was one of the first women to ride a bicycle in the Maldives. “I was quite the sight”, she laughs, recalling she had to ride a man’s bicycle with her sari which was the uniform back then. Seeing her plight, Nasir introduced bicycles for women which made riding around easier.

Maldives now

Moomina can’t give a reason for Gayoom’s harassment of her.

“Back then a woman couldn’t even be president, so how could I have been a threat?” she wonders, admitting she would have quickly stood for election had the constitution allowed it.

The greatest change in the country, she believes, is the freedom to say what one wants.

“Sitting here I can say anything and I know I will not be detained by police. One year of this new government and no political prisoners – it’s simply amazing.”

The concept of MPs debating in parliament fascinates her, “as they can say what they want.”

“Though some do take it a bit extreme. Sometimes they seem to oppose just because it’s something that is not from their own party.”

She remains happy that at least they do vote together for things that benefit the people.

Moomina had been a parliament member during Nasir’s government, and was the only women for six years. “Before that there had been nominated women parliamentarians like my mother and two others during the first president Mohamed Ameen’s time, but I was the first one to be elected.”

She attributes her attitude to her mother, who frequented the market long before any women shopped there.

As for religious talks, she says she “quite likes” those of State Minister for Islamic Affairs, Mohamed Shaheem Ali Saeed.

“The things he says and the way he says it – it makes one want to listen more,” she says, but adds she would have a problem if she was forced to wear a veil “because the hair on my head never caused me any problem during all my travels.”

Moomina says she is ready to serve this government any way she can, “Though now I will no longer be able to do day-to-day affairs, as I am at the age of retirement and no longer live here.”

Living in the Maldives cost less in Nasir’s time considering the lower income of the country compared to Maumoon’s 30 years, she recalls.

“Then the average annual income was US$15,000-$20,000 thousand, but education and medicine were free, he introduced English medium studies and brought in foreign teachers – a lot was done.”

The current government’s work so far is “commendable”, she says, but adds “people expect things too fast. The government doesn’t have the money to deliver everything yet.” She hopes that once the government gets its financial situation under control, “they should not misuse it, and deliver on their pledges.”

She harbors no ill will towards Gayoom. “Bitterness ends up destroying oneself. As I got older I have decided I will not say hurtful things even to him,” she says.

Her only complaint is the amount of money Gayoom receives as an ex-president: “By this country’s standard that is too much.”

Dividing her time between Sri Lanka, London and Maldives, she says she will not stay here permanently because her husband is now used to living elsewhere.

“But it’s such a joy to be able to come back home to Maldives whenever I want, and to be able to say anything without fear.”

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Getting around in the Maldives

Whenever vacation time swings around, Maldivians always face the same dilemma: where to travel? Those who dream of seeing the Ganduvaru, the 16th century palace in Haa Alif Utheemu, the northernmost atoll, or the famous beaches of Fuamulah in the south or even Thohdhoo’s watermelon and chilli farms, soon give up when faced with the impossible task of finding cheap transportation.

Islanders who travel to Male’ for medical assistance and trade purposes have to wait weeks before they find a boat. Hiring a dhoni (traditional boat) is well beyond the means of the average Maldivian. And so, for many years we have resigned ourselves to the notion that it was always going to be impossible to have a cheap transport system in a country that is 99 per cent water.

But, the impossible is slowly becoming the possible.

Sealocked no more

2957_agreement_of_south_central_provinceThe 28,000 people who live in Thaa and Laamu atoll are the first beneficiaries of the pledge made by the ruling Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) to provide a nationwide transport system. Maldives Dhoni Services (MDS) signed a contract in August to provide a ferry service to the South Central province, which has been operational for just over a month.

“It is easy and cheap to travel now,” says Asma Raamiz, 37, a housewife in Laamu Fonadhoo. Comparing prices, she says it now costs Rf10 (US$1) instead of Rf50 (US$4) or even Rf500 (US$40) to travel to nearby islands Maamendhoo and Hithadhoo. Asma delights in the idea that islanders from the atoll can travel to Fonadhoo to watch the Women’s National Volleyball Championship being held on the island.

Mohamed Ali, 37, is a carpenter and businessman in Thaa atoll Kinbidhoo. “It’s my wife who’s going crazy,” he chortles. “She now goes to other islands to visit her friends all the time.” Since the ferry service began, he tells me, business has been booming with visitors from other islands buying items from his shop. Although a staple of the Maldivian diet, chillies were not available in Kinbidhoo before. Mohamed says chillies are now brought over from Kadhoodhoo and Veymandhoo.

But, says Ali Moosa Fulhu, the chief engineer for both atolls, the service is still in need of some tweaking. “I’m obliged to spent the night on some islands because of the way the ferry service is scheduled.” Nevertheless, he concedes, he can now travel about more easily for his work.

Full steam ahead

Mohamed Naasih, general manager of MDS, acknowledges there is still plenty of scope for improvement. “We’ve just started the service,” he says, adding changes will be made in accordance with islanders’ needs.

2959_MD_Dhoni_service_opening_of_South_Central_ProvinceAll ferry schedules are forwarded to the transport ministry for approval before being implemented. Maizan Adam Manik, the state minister for transport, says that the ministry plans to synchronise timings with institutions such as schools and hospitals. The aim is to enable ordinary citizens to disembark, have access to services and return to their islands with ease.

“We want to set islanders free from being imprisoned on their islands and allow them to have services without any hindrance,” says Maizan. He believes entrepreneurship and trade will flourish once a number of essential bills are passed. “The fruits of this transport network will be fully felt when the necessary support structure is in place,” he says, citing the land reform and housing bills as an example. “We hope MPs will process bills that will have a direct impact on citizens’ lives,” he says. Criticising the government, he adds, can continue after that.

Citizens and government

The government has now signed contracts with more parties to provide transport to four provinces. The Maldives Transport and Contracting Company (MTCC) has just signed to establish a network in the Mid-North Province. The service is to be launched in early December and will operate initially on four days of the week, says Adam Zaki, manager of MTCC. “Our priority is to make life easier for the islander, so a person living in Kaafu Dhifushi will be able to come to Male’, go to Guraidhoo and return to his island on the same day,” he says.

The president, who is visiting the South Central Province, will be buying tickets to travel by ferry today. “He expressed happiness that so many citizens are using the service and numbers were increasing day by day,” said Mohamed Zuhair, president’s office press secretary. “The president believes the exchange of trade, services and goods will positively impact the economy.” At an MDP rally last week, Nasheed said people were limited as their minds were not allowed to wander beyond the shores of their islands. Once the nationwide network is established, he said, Maldivians will be able to travel freely in their own country.

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Friday afternoons at the market

On soporific Friday afternoons, when most Maldivians gather for a family meal, a street corner in Male’ starts filling up with people. The sun is high in the sky when the beggars start taking up their positions on flattened cardboard boxes and polystyrene containers. In the shade near the fruit and vegetable market, they sit patiently, leaning against a flaking blue wall.

Abdul Raheem, 54, comes by with a wad of five rufiyaa bills. Jovial and smiling, he chats with the beggars. He has handed out money for the last 15 years. “I do it as charity,” he says. Other benefactors, mostly men, follow in rapid succession, dishing out notes of varying denominations. Friday is the most rewarding day of the week for beggars when the usual daily income of Rf30 (US$2) jumps to Rf200 (US$16).

Reasons

There seems to be an almost equal mix of women and men among the 23 beggars. Like Khadeeja Adam, 48, most look older than their age. “I was a dancer in the 70s, my stage name was Shiranee,” she tells me. She used to live in Villingili but a spot in the vegetable market has been her sleeping quarters for the past six months. A divorced daughter with six children who live in rented accommodation are her only kin. “She is too hard up to help me,” says Shiranee with a goofy toothless grin.

Aminath Nafeesa Adam, 34, gives boredom as her reason for attending the weekly gathering. “It’s a month since I moved to Male’ to be with my relatives and am alone at home mostly.” But as she speaks some of the other beggars interject, telling her to be honest and admit her motivation is money. One man even reminds her that she is “sinning by lying”.

A goofy-grinned Shiranee
A goofy-grinned Shiranee

Another of the beggars stands out among the rest. Aminath Abdul Rahman, 46, looks every inch the businesswoman she aspires to be in her dark blue velvet outfit, matching blue headscarf and dazzling gold and white handbag. “I only come here during Ramadan and the weekend,” she explains, adding she moved from Noonu atoll three months ago in search of employment. “On my second day here, I went to the municipality and applied for permission to have a coconut cart,” she says. Aminath insists she will stop begging as soon as she finds work.

Most of the men shy away from speaking, some of them getting up and walking away. Two men, Ali Musthafa, who is unsure of his age, and Ibrahim Yoosuf, 70, agree to talk. Both receive the monthly allowance of Rf2,000 (US$56) given to those over 65. Ali says he came from Addu atoll to Male’ during Ramadan to have a tooth extracted. He too does not have any close relatives. “My three children and three wives are dead,” he says. Ibrahim sits in a yellow wheelchair, a victim of leprosy at the age of 14. “I hope that this government will give poor people the chance to live a better life,” he says.

He describes how his house in Guraidhoo was destroyed during the tsunami and its reconstruction was not completed by the former government. “The allowance is insufficient,” he tells me. “A fish costs around Rf100.” But, Ibrahim says, he has spoken to the president who has assured him the matter will be looked into.

Occasionally scuffles break out between newcomers and veteran beggars. 40-year-old Aminath Hassan, a stern-faced woman,

Bored: Nafeesa
Bored: Nafeesa

says that when she first turned up, she was punched and promptly informed there was no more room. Yet she says she will persist: “I will come here until I get a job; I have children to feed.”

Skeptical

As I interview, a crowd of onlookers gather around and sceptical exclamations can be heard. One spectator, 30-year-old Solih Shiyam refuses to believe the beggars are destitute. “This government takes care of the poor,” he says. He points to the allowance for those over 65 as well as the introduction of universal healthcare. “Even the previous government gave Rf500 (US$39),” he says. “There are people here who earn enough to live on.” Ahmed Adam, 52, who runs a nearby shop agrees. While he says the beggars are not an inconvenience, he has never given them a single laari as he too believes most are not impoverished.

Seated in their spots at beggars' corner
Seated in their spots at beggars' corner

Director General of Male’ Municipality Abdul Hameed Ali is of a similar opinion. He says some employees at the municipality have been known to beg. “People even take the ferry and come from nearby islands like Guraidhoo to beg on the weekends,” he says. Under the previous government the municipality was entrusted with the task of talking to and counselling beggars, which led to a reduction in numbers, he adds.

Their care has now been conferred to the National Social Protection Agency (NSPA). Mohamed Ismail Fulhu, director general of the NSPA, says the government provides Rf1,000 (US$78) to those who cannot meet their basic needs. Currently, the number of people receiving benefits is 686. Ismail thinks few are truly needy and alludes to Naasira, a well-known miser and beggar who purportedly has thousands stashed away in a bank. While the jury is out on whether Maldivians who beg do so out of necessity, in recent years, the consensus is that more and more people are gathering at the now well-established corner of the capital to hold out their hands.

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Maldives through the eyes of the artist

If you have missed out on any exhibitions at the National Art Gallery (NAG), this is the time to catch up. To mark the occasion of World Tourism Day, the ministry of tourism in collaboration with NAG is holding a month-long exhibition titled “Maldives Art”.

A potpourri of work from different exhibitions held this year such as Maldives Contemporary 2009, Whimsical Poetry and Jaisalmer Yellow, is on display. This makes for an interesting display of Maldivian life in a variety of styles. Samah Ahmed’s oil painting from the Blue series transported me back to my childhood when I would float down to the bottom of a lagoon and look up at the shimmering blue waters above.

“We want to show that visual culture and tourism is very much related like the souvenir industry,” says Mamduh Waheed, deputy minister of tourism, arts and culture, explaining why the art exhibition has been included among the activities to mark World Tourism Day. “There is a huge potential for this. We also want to explore the idea of how identities are formed through images and craft.”

Mamduh believes that this is an “opaque” segment within the tourism industry at the moment. “We are not only talking about art, as in fine arts and painting, we would also like to encourage more Maldivians to take up other fields, like crafts and performing arts,” he says.

Browsing through the paintings and you realise that the picture perfect postcards scenes most commonly associated with the Maldives are depicted alongside others, which are not so visible to the average tourist.

Psycehedlic: Bandiya Dance
Psycehedlic: Bandiya Dance

In Ibrahim Rasheed’s watercolour, “Mending the net”, an old man is patching up his fish net, his brow furrowed in painstaking concentration while ‘Deep Mistic’, with its hues of green and yellow, lends a mystic quality to the kulhi (lake) and its surrounding mangroves.

Ali Ishaan’s (Raape) ‘Sun, Sea, Sand’ as the name suggests is the quintessential tourist brochure image that lures hundreds of thousands of tourists to the Maldives every year. The beach stretches out endlessly while a couple stands on the water’s edge, the different shades of blue capturing the colours of the sea. A sailboat on the horizon completes this languorous scene. Raape says tourists dislike abstract paintings. “The colours I have painted are the ones tourists want to see,” he says. Raape works in the souvenir trade, producing artwork for tourist consumption. “Tourists come here for the sun, sea and sand. They’re not interested in seeing weird artistic images that come from the mind of an artist,” he says. He relates an anecdote about an artist who had angered a group of tourists after drawing a scene of a girl with a rope around her neck.

Apart from the ubiquitous blue, Raape says tourists are fond of the various colours of a sunset. “Those are the colours and shades I stick to when I do paintings for tourists,” he says. He says he feels his paintings must correlate with a visitor’s blissful state of mind when holidaying in the Maldives.

Mixed in with the feel-good paintings are others that provoke thought. Hassan Ziyad’s Tsunami is one such painting. It shows a house, partially

Wrecked: Tsunami
Wrecked: Tsunami

destroyed, its outer wall lying in pieces. A window still intact shows a vista beyond the destruction.

All of the paintings on display apart from ‘Sun, Sea and Sand’ are from the national gallery’s permanent collection. Curator Ahmed Naeem says the gallery has a budget to buy paintings every year. “We take certain things into consideration, like how long the artist has worked and what type of work it is when we choose paintings,” he says.

Some of the pieces have been commissioned, like Eagan M Badeeu’s triptych – an artwork that consists of three adjacent paintings. Reminiscent of island life some time ago, it is aptly titled, ‘Goathi’ (courtyard). Two women sit near the outdoor kitchen cutting fruit. Chicken roam freely in the courtyard and children play nearby. The low outer wall of the house is visible in the background with several crows perched delicately atop and a man walking by behind. Complete with the libaas (traditional dress), the scene has been captured by Eagan’s brushstrokes to perfection.

Despite the beauty of the paintings, artists like Raape say Maldivian artists face limitations in their creativity. “For example, in the Maldives it would be impossible to create a six-feet art piece with lacquer work as we wouldn’t have the necessary items available,” he says. He believes the workshops held by foreign artists at the national gallery do not amount to much as it is impossible to find the necessary materials to put into practice what was learnt. “We have to import what we need for art work,” he says. Knowing the constraints faced by Maldivian artists, the artwork on display seems like even more of an achievement.


Maldives Art will be held at the National Art Gallery from 10am to 4pm, Sunday to Thursday until 30 October.

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