Getting around in the Maldives

Whenever vacation time swings around, Maldivians always face the same dilemma: where to travel? Those who dream of seeing the Ganduvaru, the 16th century palace in Haa Alif Utheemu, the northernmost atoll, or the famous beaches of Fuamulah in the south or even Thohdhoo’s watermelon and chilli farms, soon give up when faced with the impossible task of finding cheap transportation.

Islanders who travel to Male’ for medical assistance and trade purposes have to wait weeks before they find a boat. Hiring a dhoni (traditional boat) is well beyond the means of the average Maldivian. And so, for many years we have resigned ourselves to the notion that it was always going to be impossible to have a cheap transport system in a country that is 99 per cent water.

But, the impossible is slowly becoming the possible.

Sealocked no more

The 28,000 people who live in Thaa and Laamu atoll are the first beneficiaries of the pledge made by the ruling Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) to provide a nationwide transport system. Maldives Dhoni Services (MDS) signed a contract in August to provide a ferry service to the South Central province, which has been operational for just over a month.

“It is easy and cheap to travel now,” says Asma Raamiz, 37, a housewife in Laamu Fonadhoo. Comparing prices, she says it now costs Rf10 (US$1) instead of Rf50 (US$4) or even Rf500 (US$40) to travel to nearby islands Maamendhoo and Hithadhoo. Asma delights in the idea that islanders from the atoll can travel to Fonadhoo to watch the Women’s National Volleyball Championship being held on the island.

Mohamed Ali, 37, is a carpenter and businessman in Thaa atoll Kinbidhoo. “It’s my wife who’s going crazy,” he chortles. “She now goes to other islands to visit her friends all the time.” Since the ferry service began, he tells me, business has been booming with visitors from other islands buying items from his shop. Although a staple of the Maldivian diet, chillies were not available in Kinbidhoo before. Mohamed says chillies are now brought over from Kadhoodhoo and Veymandhoo.

But, says Ali Moosa Fulhu, the chief engineer for both atolls, the service is still in need of some tweaking. “I’m obliged to spent the night on some islands because of the way the ferry service is scheduled.” Nevertheless, he concedes, he can now travel about more easily for his work.

Full steam ahead

Mohamed Naasih, general manager of MDS, acknowledges there is still plenty of scope for improvement. “We’ve just started the service,” he says, adding changes will be made in accordance with islanders’ needs.

All ferry schedules are forwarded to the transport ministry for approval before being implemented. Maizan Adam Manik, the state minister for transport, says that the ministry plans to synchronise timings with institutions such as schools and hospitals. The aim is to enable ordinary citizens to disembark, have access to services and return to their islands with ease.

“We want to set islanders free from being imprisoned on their islands and allow them to have services without any hindrance,” says Maizan. He believes entrepreneurship and trade will flourish once a number of essential bills are passed. “The fruits of this transport network will be fully felt when the necessary support structure is in place,” he says, citing the land reform and housing bills as an example. “We hope MPs will process bills that will have a direct impact on citizens’ lives,” he says. Criticising the government, he adds, can continue after that.

Citizens and government

The government has now signed contracts with more parties to provide transport to four provinces. The Maldives Transport and Contracting Company (MTCC) has just signed to establish a network in the Mid-North Province. The service is to be launched in early December and will operate initially on four days of the week, says Adam Zaki, manager of MTCC. “Our priority is to make life easier for the islander, so a person living in Kaafu Dhifushi will be able to come to Male’, go to Guraidhoo and return to his island on the same day,” he says.

The president, who is visiting the South Central Province, will be buying tickets to travel by ferry today. “He expressed happiness that so many citizens are using the service and numbers were increasing day by day,” said Mohamed Zuhair, president’s office press secretary. “The president believes the exchange of trade, services and goods will positively impact the economy.” At an MDP rally last week, Nasheed said people were limited as their minds were not allowed to wander beyond the shores of their islands. Once the nationwide network is established, he said, Maldivians will be able to travel freely in their own country.

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